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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.